SERMA previews | Footwear fashion spring–summer 2026/27: goodbye chunky, welcome slim!
This is what the leading international footwear fashion agencies and consultancies are reporting, and their recommendations are already being adopted by the best-known global brands for upcoming collections.
For Europe’s summer 2026 season, fashion moves away from heavy structures (such as “chunky” sneakers) and shifts toward a much more refined, slim and functional aesthetic. The key word is lightness. The aim is footwear that feels like a “second skin”, prioritizing comfort without losing the elegance of fine lines.
Conceptually, footwear design steps back from extreme minimalism to embrace a sensory “post-minimalism” era. It is not only about how the shoe looks, but also how it feels (textures, finishes, etc.) and how it connects with the environment and users.
Based on the latest runways in Milan, Paris, New York and London, these are some of the main lines set to lead next Spring-Summer 2026/27:
They stop being beach-only footwear and consolidate as key pieces of “chic” urban style. The main trend is the sophistication of simplicity.
Flatforms with flat platforms and wide straps that wrap the instep.
Classic thong sandals and luxury slides are reimagined with premium materials. Cushioned soles and padded straps appear, sometimes with minimal low and slim kitten heels. Metallic details, oversized buckles, and velvet or satin finishes are used for evening wear.
“Puffy” designs - padded, inflated - with an emphasis on comfort.
Handcrafted sandals with a natural look in raffia, braided straw and cords. Fisherman styles with multiple interlaced straps. Lighter soles and vibrant colors.
The “naked” trend (barefoot effect) brings transparent materials and very open meshes and weaves.
Colors: pastels through fuchsia; metallic silver and rose gold; earth tones, ideal for Quiet Luxury (silent luxury).
They continue to dominate women’s styling, with innovations and reinterpretations. Some include squared toes replacing classic rounded ones, adding a more architectural and modern feel. “Sporty” ballerinas are hybrid models that blend the delicacy of the original ballerina with technical soles or sneaker-like materials (strongly influenced by brands such as Miu Miu and Adidas). Materials: soft leathers, textiles, open weaves, grids and mesh fabrics. Transparent vinyl and PVC.
“Skinny Sneakers” are flat models inspired by martial arts or driving footwear (in the style of Puma Speedcat or Adidas Taekwondo). They feature very thin soles that hug the foot, with a strong retro influence.
Colors: lots of red, metallic silver and earth tones.
With an open heel, either flat or with very low 3 to 5 cm kitten heels that allow intensive daytime wear. They feature pointed toes, often with small bows, bringing back a very feminine and romantic aesthetic (Coquette style).
Boat shoes are seeing an unexpected resurgence in the European proposal. In suede and premium materials, such as soft leathers and exclusive textiles, for a relaxed and elegant look.
Fashion forecasters are betting on the continuity of Transformative Teal, a blue-green that evokes both marine nature and the digital world.
It is followed by “Electric Fuchsia”, a vibrant neon pink with high energy and a futuristic feel; “Soft Saffron”, a warm amber yellow ideal for natural materials such as leather and suede; and finally “dirty” neutrals such as stone tones, cement gray and “Cocoa Powder”, a reddish brown for monochrome looks.